This delightful place is a converted 18th-century caravanserai, forming a twin-level arcade of sturdy arches around a pretty central courtyard. It's not just a hotel but also one of the most intriguing sights of the city. Overnighting here is justification enough to visit Sheki.

Sheki once had five working caravanserais as the trade routes between Baku and Tbilisi and a spur route across the mountains to Dagestan used to meet here.

Rooms have wonderful arched brickwork ceilings and while they're certainly not luxurious, all have sitting areas and humorously basic bathrooms.

Book ahead, especially for single rooms as there are only two. The entranceway is a small portal within a vast wooden door (poorly signed) making entry a slightly daunting prospect. Don't be put off. The reception area is across the castle-like vaulted entranceway.

At the rear is an attractive garden restaurant which in summer makes a lovely place for a slice of Sheki's signature halva and a cup of tea. There's also a winter dining hall and a very atmospheric tea house which sadly only offers tea by the samovar in an excessively expensive set accompanied by a series of fruits and jams.

MF Axundov street 85, Old Town, Seki AZ5500, Azerbaijan