A Living Monument from the Middle Ages

Ichari Shahar, though very small and compact, has many kilometers of winding lanes and alleys, which can best be enjoyed on foot. There's really quite a significant slope from sea level up to the its highest point up to the inner walls of the Academy of Science Presideum. Guides usually start at Gosha Gala Gapisi (Double Tower Gate) and show various streets until tourists reach the Shirvanshah Palace. From there they go on to Yeddi Gumbaz (Seven Domes) of the old bathhouse. Up the hill from Mulberry Tree Square is the highest point in Ichari Shahar, guarded by Jebahan Tower, now called Sinig Gala (Broken Tower). When Peter I ruled Russia in the 18th century, military forces entered Baku and attacked the city from two main points - Maiden's Tower on the waterfront and Jebahan Tower at the highest peak. You can still see places on Maiden's Tower where the artillery fired against it. Maiden's Tower withstood the attack, but Jebahan Tower was destroyed. To this day, it is known by the local residents as "Broken Tower."

Most favorite place of all in Ichari Shahar among tourists is the Maiden's Tower. People can climb its winding staircase the eight floors to look out over the city.

Ichari Shahar is divided into eight main districts, which are said to have been established in the Middle Ages. One of them is called "Seyids", which refers to the relatives of the Prophet Mohammed. Hajis (those who had been on a pilgrimage to Mecca) lived in this block as well. Another section is called "Aghshalvarlilar" (literally "white-trousered ones" which refers to those who have made the journey or hajj to Mecca).

Another block is called "Bozbash yemayanlar" (those who do not eat "bozbash"). Bozbash is an Azerbaijani dish made of chopped meat, peas and potatoes mixed with spices. Other blocks were for "Lodkachilar" (Boat men), "Hamamchilar" (Bathhouse workers), "Arabachilar" (Wagoners), "Juhud Zeynallilar" (Jewish Zeynallis) and "Noyutchular" (Oil men). One last block is called "Shahgaldilar", meaning "the shah came." Some of the names define occupations of their early occupants; others, obviously, carry some humor that is lost on us today.

Nevertheless, these names are still preserved in Ichari Shahar, despite the fact that there are fewer and fewer natives actually living here. Many people are moving away - not because they want to, but because they can sell their property and live comfortably elsewhere, for example, in Gunashli. Of course, they can't be blamed. They don't have a lot of money, so they're forced to sell their houses during these difficult economic times. Still, there are some who won't move, no matter how much money you offer them. They are deeply attached to their roots and would rather die than move.

Defense Strategy
Ichari Shahar was not built using a straightforward design. For instance, you wander down a narrow alley and suddenly hit a blind alley. Why? It's not because that was the way houses were built back then. It was planned that way.

Let's say that the Gosha Gala Gapisi (Double Tower Gate) is destroyed, and invaders enter Ichari Shahar on horses. Four horses can run abreast on a wide street, but if they hit a narrow alley, the horses have to file behind each other one by one. It's a lot easier to wipe out the enemy one by one.

What's the best way to stop invading forces? Build a city with winding, confusing streets and unexpected dead ends. Also, it's not easy to invade a city that can fight back on three or four different heights. Ichari Shahar was designed so that its people would be able to defend themselves from various heights above the ground.

The layout of the streets in the Inner City offers other advantages as well. Throughout the Middle East, including Azerbaijan, there are dramatic temperature extremes throughout the year. In the winter, it can be 20 degrees below zero [Celsius], while in summer, it can reach 50 degrees above zero. Ichari Shahar's narrow streets benefit from the considerable amount of shade cast from adjacent buildings. Furthermore, the houses' walls are nearly one meter thick which provides a natural cooling system.

Disturbing Changes
Ichari Shahar has changed a great deal in the past decade. Many new buildings are springing up. A few years ago, there was a mad rush by the international oil companies to refurbish old buildings and set up their offices there. This created terrible traffic jams, since these narrow streets were only built for pedestrian traffic, or occasional horses or camels.
Of the new buildings being constructed today, most do not fit the pattern of architecture peculiar to this part of Baku.
Some of these new buildings have been built over underground water reservoirs. In early times, people knew about it and dug wells on each street so that they could have clean, cold water.